This is the cover of my new novel (some slight variations possible), due out from Thomas Dunne Books (St. Martin's Press) early in the new year. No, it has nothing to do with this blog, but then there is a blog within the novel. Worlds within worlds.
Excerpts to follow, so stay tuned.
Friday, September 28, 2012
Friday, September 14, 2012
The Joys of a Small Cellar
Collecting wine can be dangerous to your health. I’m not
talking livers here, but minds. I know of a doctor who began collecting wine as
a hobby, and ended up with an obsession. He rented space in
temperature-controlled rooms all over town for his considerable cellar of fine bordeaux, burgundies and ports.
He owns more wine than he can ever drink. A lot of what he buys nowadays won’t
even mature in his lifetime, yet he can’t stop.
The big collectors are different from you and me. Consider
the case of a man who stored his extensive wine cellar with friends in an exclusive section of a large American city.
The friends had three teen-age children who, with their buddies, got into the
habit of dipping into the cellar on
unsupervised weekends and popping corks. Being orderly, they
re-corked the empty bottles and put them back in the crates. This ritual got
them through high school in some fashion – I don’t know about their grades, but
their palates should be awesome – and only later did the owner
discover that about $50,000 worth of less-than-well-aged wine had gone down somebody’s gullet.
Here’s the big difference between that, and losing a bottle
of cooking sherry to a thirsty guest. In between lies the need for a reasonable
assemblage of wine reasonably monitored. The joys of a small cellar are many,
and usually subtle. They have more to do with convenience than value, more with
generosity than ostentation. With a small cellar, you can produce something special to
drink when a friend arrives. You can enjoy wine regularly without having to
cart it home every night. You can purchase wine by the case, and thereby take
advantage of bargains. As a student of wine, you can have a modest library.
A small cellar is a relative thing. Two cases of wine are
too few, 20 are too many. My definition of a small cellar is one whose contents
you can recall, however hazily. You know you have a few cases of bordeaux, and – roughly - which
vintages. There's some less expensive cabernet from Chile
for immediate drinking, and that mixed case of reduced California chardonnay. Also some pinot grigio
in big bottles for parties, and a white Graves
for oysters, should they materialize. Only one bottle of port, and some sparklers.
You can correct deficiencies as soon as the sales begin.
A small cellar should, however, contain some surprises. You
should occasionally come upon something you forgot was there, a sensation
similar to that produced by finding money on the pavement. You originally paid for the wine, but
that pain belongs to the past. Or the bottle may have been brought by a friend
and put away until the proper time to drink it.
Gifts are another advantage of keeping a small cellar. How
many times have you wished, going out the door to dinner, that you had a bottle
of something decent to take along? Having some, wine on hand solves that
problem, and offers larger possibilities as well. When my son’s 21st birthday loomed, as everyone’s must, I
wanted to give him something memorable, but also usable. He, naturally, wanted
cash. In the cellar I had a case of '81 Lynch-Bages, a cru classé from
Pauillac. I made copies of descriptions of the chateau and vintage for him, figuring
the wine would be ready to drink about the
time his preference for beer ameliorated.
Small cellars must meet certain standards if the wine is to
last even a short time. First, there must be an absence of light, which can
ruin wine faster than you realize. If absolute darkness isn't possible, then a
shadowy nook is far better than shelves exposed even to a light bulb a portion
of each day. Store wine bottles on their sides, to keep the corks moist and therefore airtight. Try to store
them away from washing machines and other sources of vibration, which over the long run will terminally
discombobulate your wine.
Temperature is very important – both the degrees, and daily
fluctuation. Summer heat can spoil wine left in basements that people assume
are cool enough. If the temperature in your basement exceeds '70 degrees, you
need an air conditioner, period. Furnaces can produce more heat than
wine and corks can stand, so bottles should stored far from them, and clothes driers. Whatever the season, the temperature shouldn’t fall below the mid-’50s, and shouldn’t change more than five
degrees in a day. Not everyone has a basement.
In apartments, the cellar requires more imagination. Wine
storage units that resemble refrigerators can be had, but most people improvise with closets. Granted, closets are
often dark, but they are also often hot and stuffy. If you use one, try to cut off
any source of heat to it in winter, and leave the door open to air-conditioning
in summer. A little light is less harmful than an August on the Potomac.
I know an ardent enophile who lives in a two-bedroom apartment. One bedroom is for him, the other for his wine. There the shades are always drawn; in the winter, the wine is stacked against the outside wall. In summer, he moves it across the room and cranks up the central air-conditioning.
I know an ardent enophile who lives in a two-bedroom apartment. One bedroom is for him, the other for his wine. There the shades are always drawn; in the winter, the wine is stacked against the outside wall. In summer, he moves it across the room and cranks up the central air-conditioning.
There are stranger wine cellars. Some people even keep them
on sailboats. I knew one wine writer who maintained a small cellar in the trunk
of a car. It didn’t do much for the wine, but it did wonders for her sense of
well-being.
soild post, sir! like everything, there is so much bs due to information innundation. thank you for not only cutting though the bs, but adding great color. PW
soild post, sir! like everything, there is so much bs due to information innundation. thank you for not only cutting though the bs, but adding great color. PW