In 2007 I left the editorship of Preservation magazine and pursued a long-standing desire: to visit Cuba. The obstacles were great - George Bush was hounding Americans who went, and the Cuban embassy in DC didn't help much. I ended up on a puddle-jumper flight from Miami and stayed in the same hotel Hemingway had been in. The visit to the finca was dream-like and quite wonderful, and the piece I wrote, below, the last I did for that magazine:
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